On finding better bearings for a better Trikke ride.
Wow! What a difference new bearings make in my carve! Hills are easier, flat ground is smoother, and I go faster (by a little more than 10%, when averaged over three moderate-exertion workout sessions with a cumulative distance of about 14 miles). Best yet, I don’t have to work as hard to carve. I even have enough energy left after my typical workout to ride an extra mile!
While I am thrilled with my improved ride, I have to admit: it was a bit overwhelming trying to figure out which bearings were best for my needs…
When I first searched Google, I couldn’t believe the sheer variety of bearings available: ceramic, steel, or stainless steel; ABEC 3/5/7/9, Swiss, or skate rated; 6, 7, or 8 balls; shielded or sealed; with or without labyrinth … and the list of considerations goes on. So I took a deep, cleansing breath and set about becoming proficient in bearing lingo.
By the time I emerged from my research, I was sweating profusely, thoroughly exhausted, and partially brain dead. But I had managed to scale an Everest-sized mountain of data, condensing it into a few key factors that matter most for my style of riding (mostly fun and fitness, no stunts, and no marathon distances).
I settled on stainless steel, ABEC 9-equivalent bearings with labyrinths and non-contact rubber seals. Why? Well, because:
- With ceramic bearings, I’d have to worry about whether my bearings crack or shatter when I hit a pothole or land a jump (okay, so I don’t jump, but you might).
- Steel bearings – even with proper lubrication – rust easily. I’m not a fan of disassembling my wheels to clean, dry, and re-lube the bearings after rolling through a puddle. Boo, hiss!
- Although the bearing I chose isn’t manufactured to ABEC specifications (standardized tolerances that allow less lateral motion/decreased drag with each progressively higher ABEC number), this bearing has been judged by pros to be equivalent to an ABEC 9 (the highest ABEC rating). In addition, it’s manufactured
specifically to accommodate the torsion and side-load forces we Trikke riders generate in spades each time we lean. - Labyrinths keep bearings cleaner longer, giving dirt, liquid, and contaminants a more complex path to travel between the outside environment and the bearing’s inner workings.
- Rubber seals are removable and make accessing and cleaning a bearing’s innards easier and more efficient. A clean bearing is a happy, long-lived bearing that delivers a consistent, smooth ride.
- Non-contact seals do not touch the balls that are inside the bearings. While many experts say that the drag resulting from seal-to-ball contact is minimal, I’d just as soon roll as fast as I can, thank you very much!
After several rides on these new bearings, I couldn’t be happier. In fact, I’d say that these little stainless steel beauties represent the best $30 I’ve ever spent! If you’re in the market for new bearings, check out Oust MOC 7 Speed Bearings (available through various online retailers). They’ve certainly earned the much-coveted Trikke-O-Babbler Seal of Approval.
Carve on, y’all!
About Elise Bennett
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I recently installed ceramic bearings on my T-12 and enjoy a smoother ride. It’s also easier to do the 180 or figure 8′s for hill climbing.
Ceramics, huh? Nice! I’ve heard that those are exceptionally smooth. Bet they make a sweet ride even sweeter! Have you used ceramics (before these bearings) for a while? Any problems with breakage? I’m pondering a ceramic set for another Trikke and would love to get feedback from folks who have actually used them.
Hi, I’ve got two t-12′s and five t-8′s I’m just a little obsessed with trikking. One t-12 has ceramics, and the other I just thinned the grease in the bearings that came with it. All my t-8′s have either bones reds or supper reds which is a great bearing and pretty inexpensive. I don’t use a hammer on my bearings but press them in using the shaft with extra bearings and the spacers to press them in place. Getting them out sometimes I have to tap on them a little bit. The t-8 bearings are the same as roller blade bearings which in my rollerblading days I tried out a lot of bearing.
Happy Trikking
Alvin:-)
Wow – you have quite a collection of Trikkes. Impressive, sir! How do your ceramic bearings ride in comparison with metal? I just use the rubber mallet to tap the bearings gently into place; the wide striking surface makes it easier for me to get the bearings in or out of place evenly. Wouldn’t dream of whacking the bearings with a hammer – yikes! I like your idea about using the spacers to help the bearings into place. Will try that next time. Carve on, man!
I haven’t noticed a big difference with the ceramic bearings. But, I haven’t ridden my copper t-12 much to give it a fair hearing yet? It is a very tight trikke, but after allot of use I’ll like it better. My green t-12 is my favorite, and it is a fast trikke and loose which I like. I just took out some of the grease in the bearings that came with it. I wouldn’t spend the extra money again unless the ceramics prove to be better down the road. Yes, pressing your bearings in is the way to go, it pushes them straight in. When I first get a trikke I take out all the bearings to check for shavings from pressing them in crooked. Usely I replace them with bones reds, and thin the grease on the t-12′s. Yes, the rubber mallet is the way to go on bearings that are stubborn.
Carve on, Elise~!
I rode my T12 many miles for many months before installing full-ceramic bearings. Before installing them, I coasted, without any carving, down a nearby hill, and marked the exact spot where I stopped rolling. I did this several times on different days and the distance was very close each time. Then, after replacing the bearings with ceramic bearings, I consistently rolled passed an additional four or five homes, depending on the changing wind conditions.
The ceramic bearings, alone, cost half as much as a new T12. For that reason, I’d say it’s only a good idea for those of us who have developed a Trikke addiction.